*British, 1942, Royal Navy Lieutenant-Commander’s Greatcoat by Gieves Ltd, Named J. Goldsmith, King’s Crown Buttons*
An excellent original Second World War Royal Navy officer’s greatcoat, dated 1942 and named to J. Goldsmith, retaining its original King’s Crown naval buttons and shoulder rank boards for Lieutenant-Commander. The coat is a high-quality privately tailored example by Gieves Ltd, one of the best-known naval outfitters, and remains in very good condition, showing clear wartime manufacture and use.
This is the regulation double-breasted Royal Navy greatcoat in heavy dark navy wool, with wide lapels, high standing collar, and full-length skirt, intended for cold-weather wear at sea. The coat retains its correct gilt brass Royal Navy buttons with King’s Crown and fouled anchor, confirming wartime use prior to 1953. The shoulders carry removable rank boards showing two full gold lace rings with a narrow intermediate stripe and executive curl, denoting the rank of Lieutenant-Commander in the Royal Navy.
Internally the coat retains its original tailor’s label for Gieves Ltd together with a name label 583a J. Goldsmith and a dated marking 28.09.42, indicating manufacture during the height of the Second World War. Gieves of London and Portsmouth were among the principal naval tailors supplying officers with privately purchased but regulation uniforms, and surviving wartime examples with clear labels, dates, and rank insignia are increasingly difficult to find.
The coat retains its rear belt, original lining, and correct construction throughout, with no modern alterations noted. The long skirted cut and heavy cloth are typical of wartime naval greatcoats intended for bridge and deck wear in exposed conditions, particularly in North Atlantic service.
Approx. Measurements – Shoulder width: 48 cm. Sleeve length: 66.5 cm. Overall length: approx. 132 cm.
History Note:
During the Second World War, Royal Navy officers were required to obtain their uniforms privately from approved naval outfitters such as Gieves Ltd, who produced garments to strict Admiralty specifications while maintaining very high standards of tailoring. Greatcoats of this pattern were worn both at sea and ashore, especially during operations in the North Atlantic where heavy wool coats were essential protection against cold and wind.
The rank insignia denotes Lieutenant-Commander, identified by two full gold lace rings with a narrow intermediate stripe and executive curl. Officers of this rank commonly served as Executive Officers of destroyers, corvettes, and larger warships, or held command of smaller escort vessels during the Second World War.
The gilt brass buttons bearing the King’s Crown and fouled anchor confirm manufacture during the reign of King George VI, prior to the introduction of the Queen’s Crown in 1953. The presence of the original Gieves label together with the name J. Goldsmith and the date 28.09.42 provides strong period provenance, indicating private purchase by a serving Royal Navy officer during wartime.
*Condition*
Excellent overall condition. Cloth strong with only light wear and minor age marks. Lining with expected service wear but intact. Buttons all matching King’s Crown naval pattern. Rank boards present and original. Tailor labels present and readable. Rear belt present. No major damage noted. Please see photographs as part of the condition report.
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