A very smart original matched set of British Royal Navy Sub-Lieutenant rank shoulder boards complete with four Queen’s Crown gilt officer’s buttons by Firmin London, a highly collectible officer’s uniform grouping with strong naval outfitter provenance.
The single gold lace stripe with the distinctive Executive Curl confirms the rank of Sub-Lieutenant in the Executive Branch of the Royal Navy. The boards are constructed in traditional dark navy melton cloth with gilt top buttons and retain their internal retailer marking for John Caplan Ltd, 11 Ordnance Row, Portsmouth, an established naval outfitter located close to the historic dockyard.
The accompanying four gilt brass officer’s buttons are marked Firmin London to the reverse, one of Britain’s most respected military button manufacturers. The use of the St Edward’s Crown (Queen’s Crown) dates the set firmly to the reign of Queen Elizabeth II, from 1952 onwards and prior to the return of the King’s Crown in 2022.
Maker-marked officer’s uniform items such as these are increasingly sought after, particularly when found as a complete matched set retaining both shoulder boards and original buttons. A strong display and collector’s piece for Royal Navy uniform collectors, naval militaria enthusiasts, or Portsmouth naval history interest.
History Note:
The rank of Sub-Lieutenant is the first commissioned officer rank in the Executive Branch of the Royal Navy, positioned above Midshipman and below Lieutenant. Officers of this rank were typically responsible for bridge watchkeeping, navigation duties, and the early stages of command training aboard ship.
The distinctive gold lace stripe with the Executive Curl—sometimes called the “Elliot’s Eye”—has long been a defining feature of Royal Navy officer rank insignia, distinguishing Executive Branch officers from specialist branches such as Engineering or Supply. This instantly recognisable curl became a hallmark of Royal Navy officer dress.
Firmin & Sons of London, established in 1655, became one of Britain’s foremost military button and insignia manufacturers, supplying high-quality officer-grade fittings to the armed forces for centuries. Their marked buttons are particularly desirable to collectors due to their quality and long-standing military association.
John Caplan Ltd of 11 Ordnance Row, Portsmouth, operated as a respected naval outfitter serving officers stationed at Portsmouth Dockyard, one of the Royal Navy’s most important historic bases. Maker-marked examples such as these add valuable provenance and strengthen collector appeal.
*Condition*
Good original condition with honest service wear consistent with age and use. The gilt remains strong and bright to the Firmin London buttons, with clear maker marks to the reverses. The shoulder boards retain good colour and shape, with the gold lace still well defined. The reverse linings show expected age-related wear, including scuffing, edge rubbing, some cracking and losses to the surface finish, particularly around the lower edges and button holes. Light age staining and minor fraying are present. The original securing cords remain present. Overall, a solid and attractive matched set with strong display appeal. Please see photographs as part of the condition report.
JAQ#3190A0_2975238578
